Supporters of fish farms decry what they describe as myths concerning the way the farms operate and the conditions in which the fish are raised.

“Fish populations per enclosure have decreased considerably, in line with new European Union directives, so the fish can move around,” said fishmonger Vangelis Fotakios. “Fish foods have improved; often they are light, so that the fish do not build up fat.”

European deputy Yiannis Glavakis believes that the growth of fish farming will benefit the Greek economy and environment. “The demand for fish has risen, but fish stocks are being depleted by overfishing. Fish from farms are a solution to the problem. This creates competition, which also keeps down the price of fish from open waters.”

What should we do if we have a choice?

“What matters is to eat fresh fish,” said nutrition specialist Aimilia Vassilopoulou. “I’d recommend eating small fish such as smelt, sardines and picarel more often. They are eaten with the bones and are a good source of calcium. Herring, cod, bogue and mullet are cheaper, since the Greek seas are well stocked with them. And they are rich in nutriments.”