Mastic enters cosmetics world

Unique natural ingredient found in the southern part of Chios used in facial and body care products

By Elis Kiss - Kathimerini English Edition

The following is a true story: In the southern part of Chios, mastic trees produce mastic resin. And though mastic trees grow elsewhere in the world, they simply do not produce the substance. Various efforts made around the globe, including attempts on other parts of the same Aegean island, have failed spectacularly.

In ancient times, the ingredient was used as an oral antiseptic, strengthening gums, and a lotion for burns as well as in scented soaps and as a remedy against stomach ulcers. From ancient Egypt, where it was used to clean teeth, to the Roman era, when it was used for teeth-whitening, mastic survives today primarily as a pastry and cooking ingredient as well as a chewing-gum flavor. Furthermore, it works as a food supplement or color preservative. One of the most exciting usages so far, however, is its recent entry into the field of cosmetics.

Based on Chios, the Mastic Unique cosmetic line is a patented series of products, based on the aromatic resin of the mastic tree. Scientifically, it is based on research carried out in 1998 by the pharmacy department of the University of Athens, which demonstrated that mastic oil has a remarkable antibacterial benefit. The research also pointed to the ingredient's highly important fungicidal activity.

«Our products are a completely fresh idea, an entire range of products offering an alternative solution,» George J. Sodis told Kathimerini English Edition. A pharmacist as well as the label's export manager, Sodis owns the company along with his brother Michalis.

Founded by their father John Sodis in 1974, the company initially operated, via an agreement with the French cosmetic houses Rene Guinot and Mary Cohr, to produce and exclusively represent these products in Greece. Years later, in 1989, the Sodis family was the sole producer and distributor of the funky Fido Dido line of sunscreen and fragrances. None of those agreements stand today. Meanwhile, the Mastic Unique cosmetics line was established in 1999, and has continuously grown ever since.

The first products to be developed were toothpastes, followed by shampoos and mouthwash solutions against gingivitis and dental plaque. Soon the company was developing a comprehensive line of cosmetics including cleansing milks, moisturizers, clarifying face masks, concealers, exfoliators, cleansing gels, anti-wrinkle treatments (such as eye contour and night cream), solutions against age spots and freckles as well as slimming and body care products.

In its pharmaceutically inspired packaging, this unique product, however, remains at a very early stage of public recognition. This is primarily due to a lack of company infrastructure, such as adequate distribution, marketing strategies and sales follow-up. According to Sodis, the reason for this is lack of time, as the company is also involved in a number of import activities, including electronics, gifts and various promotional items.

For the present, therefore, some of the mastic products are only available in a few outlets, including pharmacies and a major supermarket chain (there are ongoing discussions with other supermarket directors), while on the island of Chios various products are available in local chemists and a select number of outlets offering local gifts.

Beginning in the fall, however, the company plans to launch a pilot program in the Attica region with a number of chemists carrying a broader selection of products, while the idea is also to reinforce distribution abroad. So far in the USA, for instance, toothpaste and mouthwash are distributed through a supplier mainly on the West Coast and through the Internet. In France, electronic sales account for toothpaste, while in Austria, a number of face care and treatment items are available. Current discussions include a department store chain in Japan, and a home-shopping chain in South Korea.

To date, the development of the products has been a considerable investment and points to the company's strong commitment. No matter how important sales and distribution become in the future, however, for Sodis it is clear that the products are not destined to be mass-produced or marketed.

The need for a broader promotion of mastic and mastic oil is yet another issue, one in which the State could be more involved, according to Sodis. How well known is mastic these days? «Mastic is known in scientific circles,» said Sodis. «As far as the broader public is concerned, it is not widely known, but it is becoming increasingly interesting to Europeans because it is a natural ingredient and this is a period in which people are leaning toward the natural. Besides, the fact that it is absolutely unique, has created a myth, from antiquity to today.»

The company's executives travel abroad to attend exhibitions, where competition is fierce. But there is also great interest on the part of other cosmetic companies. Overall, Sodis points to a lack of a proper scientific basis when it comes to mastic. Beyond science, however, the fact is that cosmetics is a particularly difficult field, in which trust, quality, and a specific distribution network are the essential ingredients of success.

«Ours is an enterprise with great advantages but also one which faces great difficulties,» said Sodis. «Being a Greek company is already a negative element, at least in this field. People do not trust local cosmetics as they do Swiss or French products. We are not known as an industrial country.»

Meanwhile, at the company's production plant on the island, a full-time staff of 10 works in the scientific, marketing and other departments, while seasonal staff are employed mainly for packaging purposes. In the lab, quality controls are carried out, while collaborations with fellow Greek and foreign labs develop matters of composition.

As for the future, the company is also considering developing a series of mastic stores where these and other products - all made from natural ingredients, including essential oils, body care and bath foam - would coexist. Also, Sodis does not rule out the idea of a future partnership with another company operating in the field, though he does not believe that this kind of collaboration could stem from abroad.

«We do not want to start selling our cosmetics in a spasmodic way,» said Sodis. «What we want to do is establish a name in the market, as we believe that mastic must find its rightful place in Greece.»