CULTURE

The way of the fur

«Is fur the new pashmina?» asked Suzy Menkes, playing with the notion of fur as a fashion accessory. As the president and CEO of Saga Furs of Scandinavia (a cooperative owned by 4,000 farmers), Ulrik Kirchheiner’s mission is to reinvent fur for a younger generation, while also linking it to fashion designers. In Paris, Kirchheiner talked about new prices, new products and a wider distribution network – he also invited fur activists to visit the farms. «Personal luxury as opposed to a status symbol,» is what designer Rick Owens is after. As the creative director of Revillon, the designer spoke about working with new techniques and combining different raw materials (mixing sable with goat, for example), «isolating the idea of texture, in order to emphasize the tactile element of fur.» The return of fur was confirmed by Robert Burke, vice president and senior fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman, who noted that while coats are still big sellers, shrugs, capelets and scarves are going fast.