Breaking the mold in the field of creative jewelry
Breaking the waves of artistic jewelry creation is no easy task – a comfortable solitaire ring, for instance, is still the king of classic. Yet once the rules are broken, there is no turning back; for the consumer who enjoys a flavor of the «alternative,» a rough-cut semiprecious stone, or an irregularly cut diamond is the only challenging choice. In the busy commercial Athenian area caught between Patission Street and Fokionos Negri Square, Eleni Marneri brings along 20 years of experience and her personal, fiery passion for jewelry to a new, bright boutique, which seems set to become a true hot spot of creative jewelry. «It was a lifelong dream and project,» said Marneri, who herself works with precious stones, to Kathimerini English Edition. «I adore being here, right in the center of town, in a particularly vivacious neighborhood, off, however, the beaten – yet chic – track.» In her new premises – a mini-oasis of white with a zen-like atmosphere which was beautifully created by artist-decorator Nikomachi Karakostanoglou – Marneri has gathered the creme de la creme of local creative jewelry design, while at the same time inviting foreign artists to participate as well. No fewer than 33 designers and design teams are represented here, with Marneri acting as a curator. There is a fresh idea here, in that the artists’ works are all happily mixed together, by themes or colors, for instance, in a display that feels much more like an exhibition than a purely sales-oriented spot. «This is a show in which we present the artists in our own way, and there’s more to come,» said Marneri. It is difficult to single out the designers. Take Mary Skila’s thick bangle made of rich amber and ivory. Its sheer, chunky presence is sharply contrasted with Lito Karakostanoglou’s delicate mother-of-pearl pieces, whether earrings or bracelets. And then there’s Elena Votsi, whose signature rings include rough aquamarine built on solid gold, or even Annie Guerineau, who uses the maltesing technique, which stems from medieval Central Europe. Meanwhile Dafni Valente is embarking on an urban safari theme this season, while Valy Kondidou mixes satin ribbon with semiprecious stones and pearls to make unique pieces defined by their movement. «I believe in the young, new designers and support them actively,» said Marneri. «I’m actually one of the very first people out there who has always aided them. Furthermore, I believe that there is a Greek identity which is currently being developed, where members of the new generation share an aesthetic; they see things in their own way. This also means that there is a certain Greek element being developed here, one which can be seen and interpreted in a number of ways, through the use of exuberant colors, for example, or even in the way these artists interpret the sea and its colors.» Indeed, the artists’ world evolves around bright color, rich textures and stones – from minute to chunky; from plastic to precious; from earthy coral roots to icy crystal de roche. As for the motifs: Think fish, fishnet and flowers. Also on display at the new venue are a number of accessories, including lamps, cutlery, fine scarves, metal goblets and a small collection of shoes and slippers. An underlining theme permeates this inspiring jewelry show: These craftsmen have all traveled the world in some respect, whether by plane, imagination, or pure thought. What they bring back is a wealth of inspiration and images, rows of beads and gems, but above all, the desire to break the rules. Eleni Marneri can be found at 3 Agathoupoleos in Athens, tel 010.866.8195. The current show will be on display until June 15.
